The last time I was in Vienna was 30 years ago, studying Schoenberg for my PhD dissertation. One of the things I noticed right away and wondered if I was just mis-remembering, is that the buildings are now bright and clean. Locals tell me that I am remembering correctly – for ages, the buildings were all a uniform dark, dirty gray. Recent efforts have cleaned up the historic buildings considerably, and created a lighter, more friendly face for the “innere Stadt” (inner city) or first district, bounded by the original medieval city limits. These buildings look older than they are, actually. They were built in the 19th century in the “historische” style, and if you look closely, you will find a mish-mash of older styles ranging from Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque, all meant to create a grand appearance tp house the Habsburg imperial court.